Garment



I. GOLD GARMENT March 13, 1934.

'ald

Filed Nov. 22, 1933 March 13, 1934.

I. GOLD GARMENT 22, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Nov.

' Imawzfiaw: Is a a c 40 id Patented Mar. 13, 1934 UNITED STATES PLATE-NT OFFICE GARMENT Application November 22, 1933, Serial No. 699,116

14 Claims.

The present invention relates to garments of the sport or outdoor type, represented, for example, by windbreakers, mackinaws, lumberjackets, Cossack jackets, etc. More particularly, the

invention has reference to such garments as are closed by slide fasteners, commonly referred to as zippers.

These slide fastener garments, as heretofore made, have been very serviceable and convenient for storm weather, when there is need for closing the front of the garment entirely up to the neckline. However, they have a very unbecoming, illfitting appearance when opened at the throat down to a V-neck position. This is due to the absence of lapels for trimming the appearance of the garment. The meeting edges of the front, even when turned back just below the collar to, simulate lapels, do not lie in the position of lapels, do not give attractive joining lines with the collar, and cannot be made of full lapel width without giving undesirable fullness below-the collar when closed.

The general object of the present invention is to provide an improved slide fastener garment which can be snugly closed entirely up to the neckline for storm wear, to the same degree as prior garments, and which is further characterized by full width rolled lapels which can be opened to an attractive v-neck position. In the preferred form of my improved garment, the collar is also a rolled collar joining directly with the rolled lapels so that the points of the collar and of the lapels are notched corresponding in appearance to an overcoat or other conventional lapel garment.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved'garment wherein the lapels are separate from the two front panels of the garment, whereby these front panels can have free edges extending up under the lapels substantially to the base of the collar.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved garment of the above general description wherein the rows of slide fastener devices are extended up along these free edges of the front panels so as to lie under the lapels when the lapelsare opened. That is to say, when the slide fastener is opened down to the bottoms of the lapels, and the lapels are turned back, the lapels lie over and completely cover and conceal the upper portions of the rows of fastening devices. By having the lapels thus cover the upper portions of the two rows of fastening devices, the appearance of the garment is enhanced and the objection of other fabrics panel and the piece of material from and articles becoming caught or ensnarled in the exposed edges of the fasteners is avoided.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved garment of the above general description characterized by the provision of lapel on receiving pockets defined under the lapels, between the aforementioned free edge of each front which the lapel is made. Either of these pockets is adapted to receive the opposite lapel when the garment is to be closed up to the neckline.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will appear from the following detail description of one preferred embodiment of my improved garment. in the accompanying draw- 10 ings illustrating such embodiment:-

Figure 1 is a full front view of the garment, showing it opened to a V-neck position and illustrating the appearance of the lapels and collar at this time;

Figure 2 is a fragmentary front view showing the garment completely closed and indicating the concealment of the lapels;

Figure 3 is a fragmentary front view showing the free edge of the righthand front panel swung back to expose the pocket for receiving the lefthand lapel preparatory to closing the garment up to the neckline, the righthand point of the collar being turned up in order to illustrate the lapel receiving pocket more clearly;

Figure 4 is a fragmentary view of the inside of the garment, illustrating the relation of the lapel, facing and collar with respect to the righthand front panel of the garment;

Figure 5 is a detail sectional view on an enlarged scale, taken on the plane of the line 5-5 of Figure 4;

Figure 6 is a similar view taken on the plane of the line 6-6 of Figure 4; and

Figure '1 is a similar view taken on the plane of the line 7-? of Figure 4.

The garment may be made of fabric, suede leather, finished leather, knitted material or any other kind of material, and, if desired, different parts of the garment may be made of one ma- 10o terial and other parts of another material. For the purpose of exemplifying the invention, 1 have shown it embodied in a waist-length jacket such as a wind-breaker, or as a so-called Cossack jacket, although it will be understood that 105 the invention is not limited thereto.

The main body of the garment comprises the right and left front panels 10a and 10b, and the back 11 (Figures 1 and 2). The back 11 is shown as being in one piece, although it may consist 110 of right and left panels if desired. The front panels 10a, 10b, commonly called "fronts, extend from adjacent to the bottom edge of the garment up to the shoulder seams 12a, 12b; and, in the other direction, extend from the meeting or closing edges 14a, 14b around to the side seams 15a, 15b. Should it be desirable to be able to increase or decrease the waistline dimension of the garment, pleats may be arranged to run from the lower edge up to the under side of each armhole, and these pleats may be gathered in or let out by straps 16a, 16b. The pleats may be formed in separate narrow panels 17a, 17b sewed between the front and back panels. If desired, horizontal bands, represented at 18a, 181:, may be sewed around the lower edges of the front and back panels to give a semi-fitting effect, or to reenforce the bottom edge of the garment against stretching when the waistline is drawn in by the straps 16a, 16b.

The sleeves 19a, 19b may be set-in sleeves stitched into the arm-scyes in the usual manner, or raglan sleeves may be provided, if desired. Knitted cuffs 21a, 211) are shown at the lower ends of the sleeves, although straps may be employed for securing a snug fit of the sleeves about the wrists. Pockets 22a, 22b, either of the set-in or patch type, are preferably provided in the front panels 10a, 10b.

The above described features are desirable in a garment intended for sport wear or for rugged outdoor use, represented by a wind-breaker, Cossack Jacket, etc., but it will be understood that these features are not essential and that modifications may be made therein in the case of garments intended for other uses. The garment can be made in different lengths, for example, a hip length in the case of mackinaws and the like.

The collar 24 is preferably a turn-up or soft roll collar which is sewed to the lapels along the seam lines indicated at 26. The notches 30 between the points of the collar and the points of the lapels are preferably proportioned to give an effective height of collar when the garment is closed, as will be later described. The lapels are constructed separate from the closing edges 14a, 14b of the fronts 10a, 10b so as to form the pockets 27a, 27b under the lapels, as best shown in Figure 3. These are the aforementioned pockets which are capable of receiving the opposite lapels when the lapels are turned in and the jacket closed up to the neckline. Referring to Figure 5, each lapel preferably comprises two thicknesses of material 28 and 29-which, at the front or free edge of the lapel, have their inturned edges stitched together, as indicated by the line of stitching 31. The ply of material 28 is preferably extended down along the inside a of each front 10a, 10b in the form of a narrow panel to constitute a facing for each front 10a, 10b. Where it is not desired to face the entire length of each front, the ply of material 28 may terminate adjacent to the bottom of the lapel.

- The other ply of material 29 only extends down slightly below the lower end of the lapel and has its diagonal lower edge 29' stitched to the ply 28 by the line of stitching indicated at 31 (see Figure 4). The inner edges of these two plies curve back toward the shoulder seam and have their edges overcast, as indicated at 32.

front panel 100 or 10!: and also through the two plies 28 and 29 of each lapel. As best shown in Figure 5, this stitching 33 defines the inner or far edge of the pocket 27a, 27b. The facing ply 28 of each lapel is sewed to the top or outer ply of the collar 24 along the seam line 26, and the short under ply 29 of the lapel is sewed tothe under or inner ply of the collar, as indicated at 34 in Figure 3. It will be observed from the foregoing that this construction attaches the lapels to the collar 24, but does not attach the lapels to the upper edges of the front panels 10a, 10bwith the result that the aforesaid pockets 27a, 27b are formed on the under sides of the lapels, each between the material of the lapel and the material of the front 100 or 102:.

To facilitate the insertion of the opposite lapel into the pocket, the top edge of each pocket is preferably left free or open, as shown in Figure 3. That is to say, each front panel 10a, 101) has its top or collar edge 36 free above the pocket so that the front ply or covering of the pocket is in the nature of a flap which can be folded back or pulled outwardly from the back material of the pocket to facilitate inserting the opposite lapel into the pocket. This free top edge 36 is not essential, but is, however, of marked advantage as it avoids the cumbersome operation of having to push or shove the point of the lapel back into the pocket. The inner side of said free edge 36 is preferably reenforced with a tape 37 stitched to the turned-in edgeof the material. The free edge 36 only extends back to a short line of stitching 38 which runs down from the collar seam 34. Beyond the stitching 38, each front panel 10a, 10b is sewed directly to the collar along the seam 34.

A breast pocket 39 may be provided in the front 10b the two plies of material which form the pocket being sewed solely to the front 10b so as not to interfere with the lapel pocket 2").

As previously remarked, the garment is preferably held closed by a slide fastener, commonly called a "zipper. ventional construction. comprising the .two rows of fastening devices 41a, 41b and the slider 42. Each row of slide fasteners is crimped over the edge of a fabric strip or tape 43, and these two tapes are sewed down along the entire vertical closing edges 14a, 14b of the fronts 10a, 10b by the lines of stitching 44. Where it is desired to have the slide fastener substantially concealed, the two rows of fastening devices are set back so that they lie under or adjacent to the edges of the fronts. Throughout the length of each pocket 27a, 271:, each line of stitching 44 only passes through the tape 43 and through the front panel 10a, 10b, but starting from the bottom of the pocket and extending down to the bottom of the garment the line of stitching 44 is also passed through the ply of material 28, which ply of material constitutes the facing for the lower portion of each front, as previously described. The rows of slide fastening devices extend substantially up to the upper free edges 36 of the fronts, which means that they extend up to the neck line of the garment. The slide fastener assembly is preferably of the separable type permitting the two front edges of the garment to be completely separated from top to bottom, thistype of slide fastener having registration devices acfiacent to the lower ends of the rows of fastening devices for securing registration between said two rows after the garment is on the wearer, such construcbeing well known. I

int

The slide fastener is of conlie lot;

- therein without departing the invention. For example, while it is prefer- When the garment is to be opened to the V-neck position as shown in Figure l, the, slider 42 is pulled down to the lower ends of the lapels and the lapels are thrown back, substantially as indicated. When the lapels are in this position, they overlie and conceal the openings into the pockets 27a, 27b, and they also overlie the upper opened portions of the strips of fastening devices, thereby covering the raw edges of these fastening devices. The full width of these lapels and their notched joining with the collar 24 gives an attractive neckline to the garment.

When the garment is to be closed, one of the lapels is turned inwardly to a position directly next to the shirt, blouse or suit coat of the wearer, Figure 3 illustrates thrighthand lapel 25a as being thus turned inwardly, although it will be understood that the closing arrangement might be reversed by first turning the lefthand lapel 25b inwardly. The free upper flap portion of the righthand front 100. is then swung outwardly to expose the righthand pocket 27a, and. thereupon, the lefthand lapel 25b is folded over into this righthand pocket 27a. The garment can then be closed completely up to the neckline by pulling the slider ,42 upwardly to draw the meeting edges 14a, 14b of the two fronts together into locking engagement. Figure 2 illustrates this closed position, from which it will be seen that both lapels are now completely concealed, and the lapel pockets are also concealed. There is no objectionable bulging below the collar, because both lapels lie flat. The collar 24 maybe turned down as shown in Figure 2, or may be turned up in the nature of a storm collar. The depth of the notches 30 between the points of the collar and the points of the lapels is sufficient to give an effective width or height of collar when the garment is closed.

While I have illustrated and described what I regard to be the preferred embodiment of my invention, nevertheless it will be understood that such is merely exemplary and that numerous modifications and rearrangements may be made from the essence of able to provide the two pockets 27a, 271),, one at each side, in order that the garment can be closed in either direction by folding either the left lapel into the right pocket or by folding the right lapel into the left pocket, nevertheless this is not essential because a single pocket on only one side would give some of the advantages except that the garment could only be closed in one direction by folding the opposite lapel into thisone pocket.

I claim:-

1. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, slide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to said right and left fronts and extending substantially up to the neckline for closing said fronts up to the neckline, lapels adapted to be exposed when the garment is opened, and a pocket for receiving one of said lapels when the garment is closed.

2. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, slide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to the edge portions of said right and left fronts and extending substantialy up to the neckline for closing the garment substantially up to the neckline, lapels adapted to be exposed when the garment is opened, and pockets associated with the upper portions of each of said right and left fronts, either of said pockets being adapted to receive the opposite lapel when the garment is closed.

3. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, a rolled collar, s'ide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to said right and left fronts and extending substantially up to the base of said collar for closing the garment substantially up to the base of said collar, rolled lapels joining with said collar and adapted to be exposed when the garment is opened, and a pocket associated with one of said fronts for receiving the opposite lapel when the garment is closed.

4. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, slide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to the edge portions of said right and left fronts and extending substantially up to the neckine for closing the garment substantially up to the neckline, lapels adapted to be moved to a closed neck position or to a V-neck position, and a lapel receiving pocket in the breast portion of the garment adapted to receive the lapel from the opposite side of the garment when said lapels are moved to said closed neck position, said pocket having its opening covered by the adjacent lapel when the lapels are folded back to said V-neck position.

5. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, slide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to the edge portions of said right and left fronts and extending substantially up to the neckline for closing the garment substantially up to the neckline, a collar, lapels associated therewith adapted to be moved to a closed neck position or to a V-neck position, and lapel receiving pockets under said right and left fronts in the breast portion of the garment, either of said pockets being adapted to receive the lapel from the opposite side of the garment when the lape's are moved to said closed neck position, said pockets having their openings covered-by the adjacent lapels when the lapels are folded back to said V-neck position.

6. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, a collar, slide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to the edge portions of said right and left fronts and extending substantially up to the base of said collar, lapels adapted in their open positions to fold over the upper portions of said rows of slide fastener devices, and a lapel receiving pocket under one of said rows of slide fastener devices for receiving the opposite lapel when the slide fastener means is to be closed substantially to said collar.

7. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, a collar, slide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to the edge portions of said right and left fronts and extending substantially up to the base of said collar, lapels constructed of pieces of material separate from said right and left fronts, said lapels adapted in their open positions to fold over the upper portions ofsaid rows of slide fastener devices, and lapel receiving pockets under each of said right and left fron and under each of said rows of slide fastener deice vices, either of said pockets being adapted to receive the opposite lapel when said slide fastener means is to be closed substantially to the neckline.

8. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts. a collar, slide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to said right and left fronts and extending substantially up to said collar for closing the garment substantially up to said collar, and lapels associated with said right and left fronts, one of said lapels being constructed of a piece of material separate from its correspond ing front and being free from the adJacent edge portion of said front to define a pocket between said piece of material and said front for receiving the opposite lapel.

9. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, a collar, slide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to said right and left fronts and extending substantiallyup to said collar for closing the garment substantially up to said collar, and lapels for each of said fronts, both of said lapels being constructed of pieces of material separate from their corresponding fronts, both of said pieces of material being free from the adjacent edge portions of said fronts to define pockets under each of said fronts, either of said pockets being adapted to receive the opposite lapel when the garment is closed to the neckline.

10. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, a collar, slide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to said fronts respectively and extending substantially up to the neckline for closing the garment substantially up to the neckline, and lapels associated with said fronts, one of said fronts having its vertical edge free from the corresponding lapel and having, a portion of its collar edge free from said collar to form a flap which can be folded outwardly for receiving the opposite lapel thereunder when the garment is to be closed substantially to the neckline.

11. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, a collar, slide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to the edge portions of said right and left fronts and extending substantially up to said collar for closing the garment substantially up to said collar, and lapels constructed separately from each of said fronts and connected with said collar, each of said fronts having its vertical edge free from the corresponding lapel and having a portion of its collar edge free from said collar to form flaps which can be folded outwardly to uncover pockets under said fronts, either of said pockets being adapted to receive the opposite lapel when said slide fastener means is to be closed substantially up to said collar.

12. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, fastening means thereon extending substantially to the neckline for closing said fronts up to the neckline, right and left lapels arranged to be exposed when the garment is opened, and right and left lapel receiving pockets adjacent to the upper ends of said fronts, each of said pockets being adapted to receive the opposite lapel when the garment is closed substantially to the neckline.

13. In a garment of the class described, the combination of right and left fronts, a collar, fastening means on said fronts and extending substantially to the base of said collar for closing the garment substantially up to the base of said collar, right and left lapels joining with said collar and arranged to be exposed when the garment is opened, and lapel receiving pockets at the upper ends of said fronts, each of said pockets being adapted to receive the opposite lapel when the garment is closed substantially up to the b of said collar.

14. As an article of manufacture, a garment comprising right and left fronts, slide fastener means comprising rows of slide fastener devices secured to said right and left fronts and extending substantially up to the neckline for closing said fronts up to the neckline, and right and left lapels applied to said fronts, respectively, said 

